Scionwood Exchange Saturday April 15, 2023
Location: L Y Cairns School, 10510 45 Ave NW, Edmonton, AB T6H 0A1.
Parking and entry: Free parking at front of school. Enter through front doors, turn right follow signs.
Parking and entry: Free parking at front of school. Enter through front doors, turn right follow signs.
Event: Edmonton Scionwood Exchange
Date: Saturday April 15, 2023
Time: 11am-3pm for public
Who: DBG Fruit Growers Members only come early at 9:30-10:30am to set up for Scionwood Exchange
Who: Open to public
What: Buy Scionwood ($3/ bud stick) Apple, Pear, Plum, Apricot, Cherry, Grape, Other
Cost: Free Event
Where: Cafeteria at L Y Cairns School, 10510 45 Ave NW, Edmonton, AB T6H 0A1
Come prepared: Things to consider bringing to the event
List of scionwood you are bringing, List of scionwood you want to acquire, Large Zippered bags, permanent marker, labels for scionwood ( tags, painters tape, etc), paper towel, cooler and ice packs if you are travelling a long way
Fruit Growers may accept etransfers or cash. Trade or Exchange scionwood with other Fruit Growers. Bring lots of Loonies and Toonies, exact change helps to speed up transactions
Date: Saturday April 15, 2023
Time: 11am-3pm for public
Who: DBG Fruit Growers Members only come early at 9:30-10:30am to set up for Scionwood Exchange
Who: Open to public
What: Buy Scionwood ($3/ bud stick) Apple, Pear, Plum, Apricot, Cherry, Grape, Other
Cost: Free Event
Where: Cafeteria at L Y Cairns School, 10510 45 Ave NW, Edmonton, AB T6H 0A1
Come prepared: Things to consider bringing to the event
List of scionwood you are bringing, List of scionwood you want to acquire, Large Zippered bags, permanent marker, labels for scionwood ( tags, painters tape, etc), paper towel, cooler and ice packs if you are travelling a long way
Fruit Growers may accept etransfers or cash. Trade or Exchange scionwood with other Fruit Growers. Bring lots of Loonies and Toonies, exact change helps to speed up transactions
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2019 Hardy Fruit Scionwood Exchange
We had great weather and also a great turnout for our spring event. Hover mouse over picture to see description. Click on picture to see a larger version. See some pictures below
Collecting and Storing Scionwood
When to collect scionwood depends on where you live. For most of our group living around central Alberta, we collect when the fruit tree is dormant. In central Alberta, the ground can be frozen for up to six months of the year and therefore you could say the fruit tree is usually dormant from beginning November to the middle of April, and sometimes longer or shorter depending on the year.
So, a few people may collect scionwood late in the fall before any winter kill damage can occur. The trick is how do you store scionwood ( in good condition for 6 months) for such a long time, before you will be ready to graft in mid-May to early June the following year in our area?
So the few that decide to go this route ( fall collection) usually wrap, insulate it and bury it, in a protected spot ( North side of building, shed etc., where there lots of shade and hopefully lots of snow as well ).This is what works for them.
But the majority in this area, collect their scionwood anywhere from January to late March (occasionally into mid-April) depending on the year and depending on the individuals and while the tree is still dormant (no swollen buds). Some collect early, some later. There is no hard and fast rule. Whatever works best for each in their area and works for their schedule etc.
For those of us that live out in the countryside, we usually must wait till we do not need snowshoes to get to our fruit trees. Some years I have collected scionwood in mid-February during a warm spell. But other years I must wait till the second part of March or early April.
People living in town or city may be able to collect their scionwood earlier as it heats up quicker there and the snow starts melting sooner. So, take into consideration where you live.
Please refer to pictures below for visual clues on collecting and storing scionwood.
Scionwood also sometimes called " scion" or "budstick" is to be collected from last season's new strong growth. The first picture shows all the new growth can be trimmed back, this makes excellent scionwood material. Try to get wood that is about the thickness of a pencil. This may be easy to do with apples and pears but may not practical for cherries as usually the cherry scionwood is much thinner and may also dry out much quicker.
Make sure you have all your equipment ready before heading out. Disinfect your pruners (disinfecting wipes work great). Have bags, buckets, permanent marker, painters' tape or other labels, and ladder ready.
Label, Label, Label. In case I forgot to tell you LABEL IT.
Since you are outside anyway, this may also a great time to prune away any dead, diseased, rubbing and unwanted branches from your fruit trees if you only have a few. However, do not leave your cut scionwood lying out and drying out in the bright sun. Keep your scionwood in a cool, shady spot.
Do not use older wood that has fruiting spurs on them (middle picture, second row). This does not make for the best scionwood.
Scionwood should have 3-5 buds. Long scionwood can be cut down to required size to fit in large zippered bags in fridge or before grafting later in the season.
Put labeled scionwood inside zippered bags, with slightly moist paper towel and store in refrigerator away from fruit. Do Not use Freezer to store scions, as this will cause drying out, injury and death.
Make sure paper towel is not too wet or this will cause mold issues. Not too wet, not too dry. Just right. Check your scionwood bags every couple of weeks, if you see any tiny dark spots appearing in your paper towel, remove paper towel from zipper bag and let bag air out a bit before returning to the fridge. Keep checking from time to time.
Some people decide to seal the ends of their scions with wax to prevent them from drying out. If you decide to use this method, make sure was does not get too hot and just a quick dip is all that is needed. Dark coloured wax is easier to see than light coloured wax. You can use blue, green food colouring in your wax to make it more visible.
When spring blooms come around (mid-May to early June around here) it is time to graft. Remember to cut off the bottom waxy end before grafting. Some people also cut off the bottom 1/2 inch (1-2 cm) off their scion before grafting, assuming you have a long scion. This is just to remove any potential of dried off bottom end and encourage higher grafting success.
Experiment and have fun. Keep reading below. Check out some grafting videos below. See diagrams almost at the bottom of this page to see different grafting methods and familiarize yourself with what the cambium layer is and why it is crucial to line those up for best grafting success.
Look further down to see pictures of our past Scionwood Exchange Event. Lots of great information below.
So, a few people may collect scionwood late in the fall before any winter kill damage can occur. The trick is how do you store scionwood ( in good condition for 6 months) for such a long time, before you will be ready to graft in mid-May to early June the following year in our area?
So the few that decide to go this route ( fall collection) usually wrap, insulate it and bury it, in a protected spot ( North side of building, shed etc., where there lots of shade and hopefully lots of snow as well ).This is what works for them.
But the majority in this area, collect their scionwood anywhere from January to late March (occasionally into mid-April) depending on the year and depending on the individuals and while the tree is still dormant (no swollen buds). Some collect early, some later. There is no hard and fast rule. Whatever works best for each in their area and works for their schedule etc.
For those of us that live out in the countryside, we usually must wait till we do not need snowshoes to get to our fruit trees. Some years I have collected scionwood in mid-February during a warm spell. But other years I must wait till the second part of March or early April.
People living in town or city may be able to collect their scionwood earlier as it heats up quicker there and the snow starts melting sooner. So, take into consideration where you live.
Please refer to pictures below for visual clues on collecting and storing scionwood.
Scionwood also sometimes called " scion" or "budstick" is to be collected from last season's new strong growth. The first picture shows all the new growth can be trimmed back, this makes excellent scionwood material. Try to get wood that is about the thickness of a pencil. This may be easy to do with apples and pears but may not practical for cherries as usually the cherry scionwood is much thinner and may also dry out much quicker.
Make sure you have all your equipment ready before heading out. Disinfect your pruners (disinfecting wipes work great). Have bags, buckets, permanent marker, painters' tape or other labels, and ladder ready.
Label, Label, Label. In case I forgot to tell you LABEL IT.
Since you are outside anyway, this may also a great time to prune away any dead, diseased, rubbing and unwanted branches from your fruit trees if you only have a few. However, do not leave your cut scionwood lying out and drying out in the bright sun. Keep your scionwood in a cool, shady spot.
Do not use older wood that has fruiting spurs on them (middle picture, second row). This does not make for the best scionwood.
Scionwood should have 3-5 buds. Long scionwood can be cut down to required size to fit in large zippered bags in fridge or before grafting later in the season.
Put labeled scionwood inside zippered bags, with slightly moist paper towel and store in refrigerator away from fruit. Do Not use Freezer to store scions, as this will cause drying out, injury and death.
Make sure paper towel is not too wet or this will cause mold issues. Not too wet, not too dry. Just right. Check your scionwood bags every couple of weeks, if you see any tiny dark spots appearing in your paper towel, remove paper towel from zipper bag and let bag air out a bit before returning to the fridge. Keep checking from time to time.
Some people decide to seal the ends of their scions with wax to prevent them from drying out. If you decide to use this method, make sure was does not get too hot and just a quick dip is all that is needed. Dark coloured wax is easier to see than light coloured wax. You can use blue, green food colouring in your wax to make it more visible.
When spring blooms come around (mid-May to early June around here) it is time to graft. Remember to cut off the bottom waxy end before grafting. Some people also cut off the bottom 1/2 inch (1-2 cm) off their scion before grafting, assuming you have a long scion. This is just to remove any potential of dried off bottom end and encourage higher grafting success.
Experiment and have fun. Keep reading below. Check out some grafting videos below. See diagrams almost at the bottom of this page to see different grafting methods and familiarize yourself with what the cambium layer is and why it is crucial to line those up for best grafting success.
Look further down to see pictures of our past Scionwood Exchange Event. Lots of great information below.
Norkent Apple before removing scionwood and prior to pruning
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Norkent Apple after removing scionwood and after pruning
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Norkent Apple Scionwood collected. Aim for pencil thickness if possible, 3-5 buds per stick
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Cutting scionwood, last season new growth, pencil thickness if possible
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Older wood with fruiting spurs, not the best for scionwood, avoid if possible
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Storing scionwood in bags, slightly moist paper towel, store in fridge Not Freezer. If there is too much moisture in these bags they may mold if left too long.
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Prune any dead, diseased, rubbing or unwanted branches to open up apple tree
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Some people decide to seal the scion ends with wax to conserve moisture - optional
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Dipping ends in wax. Remember to cut off bottom wax end when grafting
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How to Graft Videos
Bernie ( one of our members) shows you 3 different grafting methods he uses.
Click on the links below to see the short ( 3-5 min) YouTube videos posted by Bernie.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3T9qHL4YwM 5.5 min Bark Grafting Video. Note: If you decide to use Toilet Wax ring ( inexpensive) DO NOT USE, Rubber Tape, as other petroleum products (I am guessing) in wax ring will melt rubber tape. Plastic or vinyl tape seems to work OK. Toilet Wax ring is a bit messy and gooey but has worked for some people.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vv8b5LzzU0g Whip and Tongue Graft 4 minute video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6t92BxW6FQ 5 min Cleft Graft Video
This is how Bernie does it, just to give you all some examples. Every fruit grower has their favorite method they like to use. Use the grafting method that you like best and works for you.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0YmqNR19iQ 7 min Chip Budding Video with Dr. Evans
Alberta winter weather can vary. Some years fruit trees grown as a bush do well, other years the tree form of fruit trees do better. There are pros and cons to each method, so plant according to your preference. Good luck.
Click on the links below to see the short ( 3-5 min) YouTube videos posted by Bernie.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3T9qHL4YwM 5.5 min Bark Grafting Video. Note: If you decide to use Toilet Wax ring ( inexpensive) DO NOT USE, Rubber Tape, as other petroleum products (I am guessing) in wax ring will melt rubber tape. Plastic or vinyl tape seems to work OK. Toilet Wax ring is a bit messy and gooey but has worked for some people.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vv8b5LzzU0g Whip and Tongue Graft 4 minute video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6t92BxW6FQ 5 min Cleft Graft Video
This is how Bernie does it, just to give you all some examples. Every fruit grower has their favorite method they like to use. Use the grafting method that you like best and works for you.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0YmqNR19iQ 7 min Chip Budding Video with Dr. Evans
Alberta winter weather can vary. Some years fruit trees grown as a bush do well, other years the tree form of fruit trees do better. There are pros and cons to each method, so plant according to your preference. Good luck.
Did the Graft take? - Videos
Have a look at how Bernie's grafts are taking.
Bark Graft Success https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjcB1wR7foU&t=4s 1.5 min video
Cleft Graft Success https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cSoxQVx_ko 1.3 min video
Grafts placed higher up on the tree and put on larger branches will take sooner ( in as little as 3 weeks, as in Bernie's videos).
If you have placed your graft on a small, lower branch of a mature fruit tree, the graft may take a lot longer to take ( 6 weeks to 2 months). So be patient. Wait until the end of the season to see if your graft has taken. Also, remember to water your tree during dry spells as this will help the grafts take sooner.
Bark Graft Success https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjcB1wR7foU&t=4s 1.5 min video
Cleft Graft Success https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cSoxQVx_ko 1.3 min video
Grafts placed higher up on the tree and put on larger branches will take sooner ( in as little as 3 weeks, as in Bernie's videos).
If you have placed your graft on a small, lower branch of a mature fruit tree, the graft may take a lot longer to take ( 6 weeks to 2 months). So be patient. Wait until the end of the season to see if your graft has taken. Also, remember to water your tree during dry spells as this will help the grafts take sooner.
Pictures from Scion Wood Exchange - Saturday April 14, 2018
Helpful signs to find our way
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Headquarters Building where we hold our Scion Wood Exchange
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Lower classroom, before and after our event
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Konrad getting his scions ready before the crowds arrive
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It is still early, Tony is setting up and people are already checking out his great selection of scions. Tony really needed a larger table to display his scions well.
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Bernie Setting up his many hardy Russian pears. Lucky for Bernie we used two wide tables to display all the potted fruits.
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Dr. Evans talking to a customer. There were also hardy figs available for sale
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Konrad as usual had a huge variety of scions. This picture was taken before the event. During the event, Konrad's table was surrounded by eager fruit growers
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A view from the back of the room. Still finishing our set up
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Dr. Evans is ready for the many customers
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Jo's table, full of freebies and apple maggot information. Many happy customers and Thean waving hello.
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It was already getting busy by 11am. This is the most people we have ever had attending our event so far.
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Johannas brought in some of his grapes and grape juice sample. No, not wine.
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Many new faces, eager to ask questions and learn some new information.
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We had a huge turnout. Some old friends and some new ones.
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About the Scion Wood Exchange April 2018
We had a terrific turn out (best ever) for our Scion Wood Exchange on April 14, 2018. The weather was great this year. Good road conditions for driving and no winter snow storms to slow down the crowds that came to enjoy this event.
This year, our open to the public hours were from 11am-3pm. Some of the fruit growers who brought scion wood were still setting up as customers were just starting to trickle in by 10:30am. By 10:45 am is was already busy. By 11:15am the room was packed with many happy fruit growers. I stopped to take a few pictures to post on our website. Time flies when you are busy talking (answering questions, sharing information) and before you know it, the event is over and there have been no pictures taken.
Check out Facebook page Hardy Fruit and Nut Trees of Alberta. A great place to share pictures, share information, ask, or answer questions about growing hardy fruit in the Canadian Prairies. You can also find more pictures of our 2018 Scion Wood Exchange on this Facebook page, taken by Drew. Thank you, Naomi, for setting this page up. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1484297785164334/about/
We had people travel from many parts of Alberta, and even from BC to come to our Scion Wood Exchange. Unfortunately, not everyone can make it out to the Edmonton area for this one day only event, for the Scion Wood Exchange.
Luckily, someone from Calgary, who after looking for similar groups in his area and who could not make it out to our Scion Wood Exchange event near Edmonton, has started his own similar group in Calgary.
The group is called Calgary Fruit Growers Group (CFGG) hosted by Doug Meldrum. You can check out the details on Facebook. Check for CFGG meeting and Grafting Demonstration on Saturday May 12, 018 10am-12pm. https://www.facebook.com/groups/2024371747811902/about/
The inaugural meeting of the Calgary Fruit Growers Group will be hosted in Doug’s backyard. Doug would like this meeting to accomplish 3 goals.
1) Give an opportunity to find a core group of interested individuals to help run the group with him.
2) Have a grafting demonstration on his fruit trees.
3) Have an opportunity for people to do a mini scion wood exchange.
Please try to attend and help make our Calgary group flourish. Bring your own grafting tools, equipment, stories to tell, and expertise. (Calgary location)
Back to Edmonton area group.
This year again both Bernie and Dr. Evans brought in more potted Hardy Pears and Hardy Figs for our event as you can see from the pictures above. This is very popular with people and the potted trees go very quickly.
Konrad’s and Tony’s tables are packed with many different varieties of apples, pears, plums, apricot, cherries and sometimes grapes scion wood. Those tables are also packed with people who are looking to graft some new varieties onto their existing fruit trees and ask Konrad and Tony a ton of fruit growing and grafting questions.
We had Frank at the back of the room with his apple scions. Frank is the only member of our group that operates a commercial organic apple U-pick orchard. Although he is quieter, he has a wealth of knowledge in taking care of fruit trees and pruning. If you did not meet him this year, do visit him next year and get some of your questions answered. He does have different apple varieties than Tony or Konrad.
You can check out Frank’s orchard online at http://www.attracted2apples.com/
With organic apple prices like his, no wonder he is sold out very early in the year and every year.
Johannes, at the front corner of the room, was sharing his love of grapes with others. He brought in his grape scions, and grape juice. Johannes is very passionate about his growing grapes. If you love growing grapes in the prairies, perhaps you may be able to visit with Johannes at our Fruit Festival on Sept 16th, 2018.
I was very pleased to see some our newer members, (like Jim W) get involved and share their scions and fruit growing knowledge with others. We need a few more fruit growers like Jim to help us out as our events get ever more popular with the public. Many times, the public is looking to get ideas, hints or answers to their many fruit growing questions and challenges.
My table was full of many free scions (apple, apricot). I also had some cherry and grape scions. There was also lots of apple maggot control information and supplies. Some grafting demos, information and supplies (tape, pruners).
The important thing is that people give grafting it a try. We are not born expert grafters, or fruit growers, but with patience, dedication, willingness to learn and through some trials of our own we grow to become proficient in our craft. Before you know it, you will be setting up your own scion wood table and answering questions from those who are eager to learn.
Thank you again to the U of A Botanic Garden for hosting this great event for our group. Although construction is not all completed in the Botanic Garden, and the parking lot was not totally finished, the Garden did a great job in putting out signage letting people know where to park and where to find the lower classroom.
We are all looking forward to seeing the many new changes done at the U of A Botanic Garden.
Hope to see many you again in around mid-April 2019 for another successful Scion Wood Exchange
This year, our open to the public hours were from 11am-3pm. Some of the fruit growers who brought scion wood were still setting up as customers were just starting to trickle in by 10:30am. By 10:45 am is was already busy. By 11:15am the room was packed with many happy fruit growers. I stopped to take a few pictures to post on our website. Time flies when you are busy talking (answering questions, sharing information) and before you know it, the event is over and there have been no pictures taken.
Check out Facebook page Hardy Fruit and Nut Trees of Alberta. A great place to share pictures, share information, ask, or answer questions about growing hardy fruit in the Canadian Prairies. You can also find more pictures of our 2018 Scion Wood Exchange on this Facebook page, taken by Drew. Thank you, Naomi, for setting this page up. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1484297785164334/about/
We had people travel from many parts of Alberta, and even from BC to come to our Scion Wood Exchange. Unfortunately, not everyone can make it out to the Edmonton area for this one day only event, for the Scion Wood Exchange.
Luckily, someone from Calgary, who after looking for similar groups in his area and who could not make it out to our Scion Wood Exchange event near Edmonton, has started his own similar group in Calgary.
The group is called Calgary Fruit Growers Group (CFGG) hosted by Doug Meldrum. You can check out the details on Facebook. Check for CFGG meeting and Grafting Demonstration on Saturday May 12, 018 10am-12pm. https://www.facebook.com/groups/2024371747811902/about/
The inaugural meeting of the Calgary Fruit Growers Group will be hosted in Doug’s backyard. Doug would like this meeting to accomplish 3 goals.
1) Give an opportunity to find a core group of interested individuals to help run the group with him.
2) Have a grafting demonstration on his fruit trees.
3) Have an opportunity for people to do a mini scion wood exchange.
Please try to attend and help make our Calgary group flourish. Bring your own grafting tools, equipment, stories to tell, and expertise. (Calgary location)
Back to Edmonton area group.
This year again both Bernie and Dr. Evans brought in more potted Hardy Pears and Hardy Figs for our event as you can see from the pictures above. This is very popular with people and the potted trees go very quickly.
Konrad’s and Tony’s tables are packed with many different varieties of apples, pears, plums, apricot, cherries and sometimes grapes scion wood. Those tables are also packed with people who are looking to graft some new varieties onto their existing fruit trees and ask Konrad and Tony a ton of fruit growing and grafting questions.
We had Frank at the back of the room with his apple scions. Frank is the only member of our group that operates a commercial organic apple U-pick orchard. Although he is quieter, he has a wealth of knowledge in taking care of fruit trees and pruning. If you did not meet him this year, do visit him next year and get some of your questions answered. He does have different apple varieties than Tony or Konrad.
You can check out Frank’s orchard online at http://www.attracted2apples.com/
With organic apple prices like his, no wonder he is sold out very early in the year and every year.
Johannes, at the front corner of the room, was sharing his love of grapes with others. He brought in his grape scions, and grape juice. Johannes is very passionate about his growing grapes. If you love growing grapes in the prairies, perhaps you may be able to visit with Johannes at our Fruit Festival on Sept 16th, 2018.
I was very pleased to see some our newer members, (like Jim W) get involved and share their scions and fruit growing knowledge with others. We need a few more fruit growers like Jim to help us out as our events get ever more popular with the public. Many times, the public is looking to get ideas, hints or answers to their many fruit growing questions and challenges.
My table was full of many free scions (apple, apricot). I also had some cherry and grape scions. There was also lots of apple maggot control information and supplies. Some grafting demos, information and supplies (tape, pruners).
The important thing is that people give grafting it a try. We are not born expert grafters, or fruit growers, but with patience, dedication, willingness to learn and through some trials of our own we grow to become proficient in our craft. Before you know it, you will be setting up your own scion wood table and answering questions from those who are eager to learn.
Thank you again to the U of A Botanic Garden for hosting this great event for our group. Although construction is not all completed in the Botanic Garden, and the parking lot was not totally finished, the Garden did a great job in putting out signage letting people know where to park and where to find the lower classroom.
We are all looking forward to seeing the many new changes done at the U of A Botanic Garden.
Hope to see many you again in around mid-April 2019 for another successful Scion Wood Exchange
Grafting Pictures
Konrad's Many Plums on one Plum Tree. This is the goal of grafting
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Tony's Apple Tree with healed Graft. Different grafting techniques available
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Tony's Apple Graft another example
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When to Graft? Around Mid May (early May to early June)
Jo's plum tree
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Jo's Norkent Apple Tree on June 10, 2015 Grafted Carrol apple, plus other varieties
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Jo's Pipestone Plum Tree
on June 10, 2015
Grafted 2 Pitzen 5 Plums onto tree
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Jo's Apple Tree on Aug. 26, 2015
Successful Skiba Apple Graft
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Jo's Apple Tree on July 26,2015
Successful Carrol Apple Graft
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Jo's Plum tree on July 26, 2015
One failure, One success, Pitzen 5 Plum graft
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Cleft Graft
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Cambium layer location
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Cambium Layer must be lined up on one side minimum when grafting
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Cleft Graft- Line up Cambium
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Whip and Tongue Graft
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Whip and Tongue Graft
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Bridge Grating- Repair for Girdling or Ringing Damage
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Bark Grafts
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Bark Grafts
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Bark Grafts
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About Scion Wood and Grafting
Would you like to have different varieties of apples on one apple tree? Do you want to grow different varieties of fruit without having a huge orchard? Do you want to learn about grafting? Read on.
What is a Scion? A piece of a plant that is attached to part of another plant . The scion wood has the desired fruit you want to propagate (breed, promote). The scion wood is collected when the fruit tree is dormant. This is usually in late winter but timing depends on your schedule and the weather. So some fruit growers may collect scion wood as early as Mid January to April 1st. Many collect scion wood in March. The scion wood is kept dormant ( usually inside a Ziploc bag, along with a moist, not wet, paper towel, so the scion wood won't dry out, and put in the refrigerator to keep it dormant) until it is ready to be grafted on to your fruit tree ( anywhere from mid to late May or early June depending on the weather and geographic location). This information is for Edmonton, Alberta area, but most of the Canadian prairies will have similar times.
Grafting is a great way to have different varieties of the same fruit on the same tree ( example 5 different kinds of apples on one apple tree). Remember that you put apples on apples, plums on plums. You would not graft a plum on an apple tree. It would not work out. However, there are always some interesting things that may work, like grafting pears on cotoneasters, but we will not get into that now. You may have to go to our Educational page to get more information on those advanced subjects.
Anyway, grafting is great if you have a small yard and do not have room to plant 5 different kinds of apple trees. In 5 years you would probably have more apples that you could possibly eat or process ( applesauce, juice, etc) from 5 full grown trees. Grafting is also a great way to increase pollination success and therefore increase production of your fruit trees.
The Scion Wood Exchange will be held downstairs in the basement, lower classroom at U of A Botanic Gardens ( just 6km North of Devon, Alberta, Canada see map below). Parking is free. Classrooms are up the hill ( South of parking lot). Follow path up the hill and look for signs.
For the Scion Wood Exchange, you can drop by anytime between 10am-3pm. You can drop-in for 10min to pick up your Scion Wood or stay longer to visit and ask questions to our Fruit Growers. This time is flexible. Coming early, gives you the best selection.
Fruit Growers remember to start collecting Scion Wood in late winter for this event. Fruit Growers if you seal the ends of your scion wood with wax, it will not dry out as quickly.
If you are a new Fruit Growers do not worry, there will be lots of Scion Wood to purchase at this event. Scion Wood will be available for $2 a piece ( stick). Bring your toonies. This will be your grafting material. There may also be some various seedlings for sale, so bring cash and be ready for this opportunity.
It is a good idea to bring to some large Ziploc bags to put your purchased Scion Wood into, and to take home with you. This will help keep the scion wood from drying out and increasing your chances for a successful graft ( for early May to early June). You will get instructions at this event on how to best store your scion wood until you are ready to graft it onto your trees later on ( up to a month or more later).
In past years we have had many varieties of apple, plum, apricot, cherry, pear and other scion wood to purchase. There may even be some nuts (seeds not people) to go around as well.
What is a Scion? A piece of a plant that is attached to part of another plant . The scion wood has the desired fruit you want to propagate (breed, promote). The scion wood is collected when the fruit tree is dormant. This is usually in late winter but timing depends on your schedule and the weather. So some fruit growers may collect scion wood as early as Mid January to April 1st. Many collect scion wood in March. The scion wood is kept dormant ( usually inside a Ziploc bag, along with a moist, not wet, paper towel, so the scion wood won't dry out, and put in the refrigerator to keep it dormant) until it is ready to be grafted on to your fruit tree ( anywhere from mid to late May or early June depending on the weather and geographic location). This information is for Edmonton, Alberta area, but most of the Canadian prairies will have similar times.
Grafting is a great way to have different varieties of the same fruit on the same tree ( example 5 different kinds of apples on one apple tree). Remember that you put apples on apples, plums on plums. You would not graft a plum on an apple tree. It would not work out. However, there are always some interesting things that may work, like grafting pears on cotoneasters, but we will not get into that now. You may have to go to our Educational page to get more information on those advanced subjects.
Anyway, grafting is great if you have a small yard and do not have room to plant 5 different kinds of apple trees. In 5 years you would probably have more apples that you could possibly eat or process ( applesauce, juice, etc) from 5 full grown trees. Grafting is also a great way to increase pollination success and therefore increase production of your fruit trees.
The Scion Wood Exchange will be held downstairs in the basement, lower classroom at U of A Botanic Gardens ( just 6km North of Devon, Alberta, Canada see map below). Parking is free. Classrooms are up the hill ( South of parking lot). Follow path up the hill and look for signs.
For the Scion Wood Exchange, you can drop by anytime between 10am-3pm. You can drop-in for 10min to pick up your Scion Wood or stay longer to visit and ask questions to our Fruit Growers. This time is flexible. Coming early, gives you the best selection.
Fruit Growers remember to start collecting Scion Wood in late winter for this event. Fruit Growers if you seal the ends of your scion wood with wax, it will not dry out as quickly.
If you are a new Fruit Growers do not worry, there will be lots of Scion Wood to purchase at this event. Scion Wood will be available for $2 a piece ( stick). Bring your toonies. This will be your grafting material. There may also be some various seedlings for sale, so bring cash and be ready for this opportunity.
It is a good idea to bring to some large Ziploc bags to put your purchased Scion Wood into, and to take home with you. This will help keep the scion wood from drying out and increasing your chances for a successful graft ( for early May to early June). You will get instructions at this event on how to best store your scion wood until you are ready to graft it onto your trees later on ( up to a month or more later).
In past years we have had many varieties of apple, plum, apricot, cherry, pear and other scion wood to purchase. There may even be some nuts (seeds not people) to go around as well.
Summary of info gathered in Grafting Laboratory, Pl.Sc. 335.
Grafting Fruit Compatibility-Hints By Gabe Botar added Feb. 7, 2019
1. Know your plant material ! This will guide you in choosing compatible stocks and scions, and give you greater control over the final size, shape and makeup of your grafted plant .
2. Safety above all !!! Use appropriate tools. Your grafting/budding knife must be razor-sharp, rigid and unbreakable. When tying/sealing the graft area, be aware that in order to prevent girdling you may eventually need to cut the cloth tape, raffia, etc. used to hold the stock and scion together. (Softer materials such as rubber budding strips, parafilm, and masking tape will usually degrade and fall off on their own, without needing to be cut. Vinyl tape and rubber/silicone tape will probably need monitoring/cutting to prevent girdling.)
3. Evergreen tropical plants and greenhouse ornamentals can usually be grafted in any season, but spring is usually best since day length is increasing then. Monocots cannot be grafted.
4. In the Edmonton area, observe the following Rules of Thumb for fruit trees (apples, pears, plums, cherries) :
a. Collect dormant scionwood/budsticks in late February/early March ; store with a moist (not wet !) paper towel in a sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator, at 2-4C. ((Scions may last for months if kept this way at 2C…and for a week or so if kept at 10C.)
b. Graft or bud after May 1. The best time is about mid-May. At this point the sap is rising in the stock but the scions should still be dormant. If you can keep a scion dormant, it may be grafted successfully onto a suitable rootstock as late as July, and still make growth and harden off in time for the coming winter. All the grafts will work this way, as will chip & Jones buds.
c. The first week in August is usually the “window” for doing T-buds, because the stock bark is “slipping” then. Whereas the scionwood/ budsticks used around May 1 and later have no foliage, T-buds will have leaves at the nodes. (Remove the leaf blades but keep the petioles, which are good little handles ; after the budding procedure, the petioles should fall off after 10 days or so.) On the budstick, avoid basal and terminal buds, choosing the plump and mature medial buds of the current season’s growth. Jones and chip buds do not need to have the stock bark "slipping" and have a wider latitude for budding time.
5. Be clear about the difference between TOPWORKING and FRAMEWORKING, and the advantages of each.
6. Some Grafting Compatibility Hints Below:
a. Graft Apples : A species is usually graft-compatible on its own seedlings ; thus, an apple will usually graft successfully onto an apple, etc. In our climate, just about any Malus scion will graft onto the same or another Malus cultivar or species. Crabapples and large-fruited apples can be grafted onto each other, but be aware of what can happen when stocks and scions with very different growth rates and growth habits are combined.
b. Graft plums and cherry-plum hybrids onto most plums, sandcherry, or nanking cherry.
c. Graft hardy apricots onto sandcherry, but not onto nanking cherry or plum (some salicinas excepted), unless you want to hold the scion for only a couple of seasons or less before final grafting onto a sandcherry. Apricots on sandcherry need to be staked. If you use sandcherry as an interstem, apricots will usually do well on plums and nanking cherries.
d. Graft pears onto saskatoons and cotoneasters and some hawthorns (especially Japanese) and mountain ash. Note the need to keep some of the original foliage below the graft on saskatoons and cotoneasters. Compatible mountain ash rootstocks do not have this requirement and usually do not need staking. If using seedlings for pear rootstocks, use seeds from hybrid hardy pears rather than seeds from pure Ussurian pear lines.
e. Graft saskatoons onto cotoneaster (usually successful) or compatible mountain ash. If the compatibility with the mountain ash is unknown, try a cotoneaster interstem.
f. Graft sour cherry onto mongolian cherry or pincherry (or hardy sweet cherry in relatively warm microclimates). Seedlings of the sour cherry 'Evans' are usually compatible stocks for sweet and sour
cherries here but often short-lived. Alternatively, sweet and sour cherries can usually be grafted onto Amur cherry or Amur cherry interstems on mayday. The hardiest sweet cherries in our area usually graft well onto 'Evans' sour cherry. The true (sweet and sour) cherries are usually not compatible on sandcherry or nanking cherry, which are more closely related to plums.
g. Graft chokecherry onto amur cherry, or mayday (usually, but not always; consider using an Amur cherry interstem on maydays). (Chokecherries are not compatible with the true cherries in f. above).
h. Graft red and white currants and gooseberries onto Ribes aureum or its close relatives (usually successful) ; the resulting plants are taller, more productive, and easier to harvest).
i. Common (French) lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) often sucker badly. They can be grafted successfully onto non-suckering late lilacs (Syringa villosa) only if an interstem of dwarf Korean lilac (Syringa meyeri) is used
2. Safety above all !!! Use appropriate tools. Your grafting/budding knife must be razor-sharp, rigid and unbreakable. When tying/sealing the graft area, be aware that in order to prevent girdling you may eventually need to cut the cloth tape, raffia, etc. used to hold the stock and scion together. (Softer materials such as rubber budding strips, parafilm, and masking tape will usually degrade and fall off on their own, without needing to be cut. Vinyl tape and rubber/silicone tape will probably need monitoring/cutting to prevent girdling.)
3. Evergreen tropical plants and greenhouse ornamentals can usually be grafted in any season, but spring is usually best since day length is increasing then. Monocots cannot be grafted.
4. In the Edmonton area, observe the following Rules of Thumb for fruit trees (apples, pears, plums, cherries) :
a. Collect dormant scionwood/budsticks in late February/early March ; store with a moist (not wet !) paper towel in a sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator, at 2-4C. ((Scions may last for months if kept this way at 2C…and for a week or so if kept at 10C.)
b. Graft or bud after May 1. The best time is about mid-May. At this point the sap is rising in the stock but the scions should still be dormant. If you can keep a scion dormant, it may be grafted successfully onto a suitable rootstock as late as July, and still make growth and harden off in time for the coming winter. All the grafts will work this way, as will chip & Jones buds.
c. The first week in August is usually the “window” for doing T-buds, because the stock bark is “slipping” then. Whereas the scionwood/ budsticks used around May 1 and later have no foliage, T-buds will have leaves at the nodes. (Remove the leaf blades but keep the petioles, which are good little handles ; after the budding procedure, the petioles should fall off after 10 days or so.) On the budstick, avoid basal and terminal buds, choosing the plump and mature medial buds of the current season’s growth. Jones and chip buds do not need to have the stock bark "slipping" and have a wider latitude for budding time.
5. Be clear about the difference between TOPWORKING and FRAMEWORKING, and the advantages of each.
6. Some Grafting Compatibility Hints Below:
a. Graft Apples : A species is usually graft-compatible on its own seedlings ; thus, an apple will usually graft successfully onto an apple, etc. In our climate, just about any Malus scion will graft onto the same or another Malus cultivar or species. Crabapples and large-fruited apples can be grafted onto each other, but be aware of what can happen when stocks and scions with very different growth rates and growth habits are combined.
b. Graft plums and cherry-plum hybrids onto most plums, sandcherry, or nanking cherry.
c. Graft hardy apricots onto sandcherry, but not onto nanking cherry or plum (some salicinas excepted), unless you want to hold the scion for only a couple of seasons or less before final grafting onto a sandcherry. Apricots on sandcherry need to be staked. If you use sandcherry as an interstem, apricots will usually do well on plums and nanking cherries.
d. Graft pears onto saskatoons and cotoneasters and some hawthorns (especially Japanese) and mountain ash. Note the need to keep some of the original foliage below the graft on saskatoons and cotoneasters. Compatible mountain ash rootstocks do not have this requirement and usually do not need staking. If using seedlings for pear rootstocks, use seeds from hybrid hardy pears rather than seeds from pure Ussurian pear lines.
e. Graft saskatoons onto cotoneaster (usually successful) or compatible mountain ash. If the compatibility with the mountain ash is unknown, try a cotoneaster interstem.
f. Graft sour cherry onto mongolian cherry or pincherry (or hardy sweet cherry in relatively warm microclimates). Seedlings of the sour cherry 'Evans' are usually compatible stocks for sweet and sour
cherries here but often short-lived. Alternatively, sweet and sour cherries can usually be grafted onto Amur cherry or Amur cherry interstems on mayday. The hardiest sweet cherries in our area usually graft well onto 'Evans' sour cherry. The true (sweet and sour) cherries are usually not compatible on sandcherry or nanking cherry, which are more closely related to plums.
g. Graft chokecherry onto amur cherry, or mayday (usually, but not always; consider using an Amur cherry interstem on maydays). (Chokecherries are not compatible with the true cherries in f. above).
h. Graft red and white currants and gooseberries onto Ribes aureum or its close relatives (usually successful) ; the resulting plants are taller, more productive, and easier to harvest).
i. Common (French) lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) often sucker badly. They can be grafted successfully onto non-suckering late lilacs (Syringa villosa) only if an interstem of dwarf Korean lilac (Syringa meyeri) is used
Apple Maggot Control- suggestions
If Apple Maggot is a problem in your area, try the following inexpensive method. Good for homeowners with one or two apple trees. See pictures below.
If you live in the city, like Edmonton, start bagging your apples before they are the size of your thumb across ( still small) to prevent Apple Maggot damage. Bag before the Apple Maggot Fly is sexually mature and laying eggs. In Edmonton that is usually early to mid June depending on the weather. A dry spring will delay the emergence of apple maggot fly.
If you live on an acreage outside the city or town, bagging is done a little later, as it is cooler in the rural areas. In rural areas, bag apples around mid June to July 1st, or when apples are 1.5 cm or 1/2 inch in diameter.
Keep bags on until you harvest your apples. Bag only the ones you want to eat.
If you live in the city, like Edmonton, start bagging your apples before they are the size of your thumb across ( still small) to prevent Apple Maggot damage. Bag before the Apple Maggot Fly is sexually mature and laying eggs. In Edmonton that is usually early to mid June depending on the weather. A dry spring will delay the emergence of apple maggot fly.
If you live on an acreage outside the city or town, bagging is done a little later, as it is cooler in the rural areas. In rural areas, bag apples around mid June to July 1st, or when apples are 1.5 cm or 1/2 inch in diameter.
Keep bags on until you harvest your apples. Bag only the ones you want to eat.
Apple Maggot Fly 1/4 inch
Thin Apples as you Bag them
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Apple Maggot Larva
Cut corners & trim top
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Apple Maggot, no legs
Bag Apples while still small
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Goodland Apple ripening
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Perfect Apples that were bagged
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